Tuesday, July 24, 2007
A Journey North
Having enjoyed our stay in Chama, it was time to work our way north to Montana and a visit with our friends at the Lee Metcalf NWR. On our first day, we headed west from Chama, then turned north to Durango, Colorado (lots of tourists and traffic), to Cortez, then a few miles south for two nights at the Ute Mountain Casino and RV Park. I don't know about you, but for us, the words "casino" and RV Park" just naturally go together. Surprisingly, it was a very nice casino with a pretty good restaurant, and the RV park was above average, with shade, grass, and free WiFi. We wanted to explore the area, especially Mesa Verde National Park, and are glad we took the time. What an impressive place! Entering the park, we climbed to the top of a huge mesa into pinion pine (hence the name "green table"), following a paved loop road which took us to a number of scenic overlooks. The mesa contains 600 cliff dwellings, some, like the "cliff palace" are huge, while other, small dwelling are scattered almost under every overhang. Looking at the dwellings, it hard to imagine how the occupants journeyed to the river for water and to forage for food; most of the dwelling are high above the valley and look like they would require a large number of ladders to reach - here, sending the kids "out to play" must have been interesting! We spent most of the day here, and would like to return during a cooler, less crowded time to explore more of the park. Leaving the park & casino a few quarters lighter, we continued north into Moab, Utah where it was a warm 107 degrees. We arrived early in the afternoon, and had a chance to make a quick visit to Arches National Park. Southern Utah is a wonderland of colorful, magical shapes; here, the red sandstone contains over 2000 natural arches and many interesting formations, like "elephant head" pictured. It was blazing hot and the skies were hazy from the smoke of distant wildfires. After a circuit of the park, we took a drive up the Colorado River Canyon, and were amazed at how large the river is and how steep the canyon walls were that towered above. It's a very scenic area but July is not the time to visit; the next day we were off early, traveling through green valleys to Provo for a night's stay, then on to Hill AFB and the base family campground (Famcamp). Here I had the chance to show Brenda one of my old stomping grounds (it's a much nicer place to visit when you're not working) and we had the chance to stock up at the commissary, rest, and visit the Great Salt Lake. We visited Antelope Island State Park, the largest access area to the Lake, crossing a long causeway. The shore on each side was full of California gulls on one side and beautiful American Avocets on the other. On the island, Pronghorn Antelope were everywhere and the view across the lake to Ogden was pretty. While it's a one-of-a-kind place to visit, beware - the whole place smells like dead fish and the brine flies are everywhere. Not a place we'll return to. Leaving Hill AFB, we headed north on I-15 to Blackfoot, Idaho, then off on a lonely road through Atomic City (home of the first nuclear reactor) and finally a stop for the night in Arco. The next day the scenery became beautiful as we picked up the Salmon River Valley in Challis, then on to Salmon, and finally, North Fork. At North Fork, we spent three days at the most beautiful park we've been to. With only 8 RV spots, River's Fork Lodge is on the banks of the Salmon River and we were able to pull forward to a spot on the bank within 20 feet of the water. Our windshield view was filled with river, forest, and mountain, and in the evening we watched as Elk came out of the forest to feed. The owners went out of their way to make sure we were comfortable and even had the post office call them to tell us our mail was in! What a great place - we can't wait to return. At North Fork, the Salmon turns west from the highway and we were able to drive along the river for over 25 miles into the boundary of the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness Area. The river flows through a broad valley where we saw nearly a hundred Elk grazing, into a narrow, rocky canyon where the water flows fast and there are large stretches of rapids. Along the way there are the ruins of old mines and cabins, and in the spring the river is crowded with fisherman as Steelhead, an ocean-going trout, make their return to spawning grounds. The smoky haze of wildfires kept us from getting clear photos, but hopefully you can see how rugged the area is. After three memorable days, we headed north over 7200' Lost Trail Pass (the motorhome performed flawlessly!) and into Montana. We'll keep you posted on our travels; come back and visit!