An Unexpected Summer In Idaho

 We're back on the Oregon Coast after an interesting summer back at Farragut State Park in Idaho - an unexpected trip that we hadn't expected to make.  

We were sitting around, enjoying the park in our favorite Oregon Coast town of Bandon when I saw a Facebook post for Farragut asking for volunteers, that two couples (that we knew) had cancelled at the last minute.  We called Errin, the volunteer coordinator that we worked for from 2017 to 2020, who sounded a bit desperate for help.  Since we didn't have any plans for summer, we agreed to help out and planned to be there by the end of May.  About 20 minutes after hanging up, I received an email from Dawn, our US F&W volunteer coordinator.  The couple slated to volunteer at Harris Beach SP in Brookings, OR (where we volunteered last year) had a terrible accident - their motor home caught on fire on their way to Harris Beach and was completely destroyed - could we fill that slot?  We called her explained that she was 20 minutes too late but after chatting for a while we agreed to take the slot for 2024.  So in just a short time we had finalized our plans for the next two years!  

So off to Farragut we    went, along our usual    route of Springfield,      over the pass to            Redmond, then north  on US97 to I84.  Then north again through the Tri Cities up to Spokane, then I-90 to Coeur d'alene and north on US95 to Athol and Farragut.  We've driven this route and shown pictures many times and nothing much has changed.  Arriving at Farragut, we were given a site in the new area of "volunteer lane", which was expanded since our last time here.  Our site was huge, with a large grassy area separating us from our neighbor.  The only problem was the lack of shade.  Fortunately, the temperature at the park was always lower than the surrounding area due to the proximity of Lake Pend Oreille.  At our end of the lake, the depth is well over 1000', and the water stays cold year around.

For the three years we were here before, we were the "program hosts", conducting evening programs in the amphitheater and "Junior Ranger" programs on the weekend.  This year there were no program hosts, but because of the shortage of campground hosts, we were asked if we would like to be "relief hosts".  As relief hosts, we worked three days a week filling in for the normal campground hosts at one of the four campgrounds.  We started around 9:30-10:00 by preparing sites vacated that morning. 

We cleaned fire pits, scrubbed the metal picnic tables, picked up any litter, and raked the sites.  Each site took 10-15 minutes to prepare for the next camper.  The workload varied each day, but normally we were done by 1:00, the checkout time for campers.  We had our own electric cart with supplies which made things easier.  The nice part is that when we were done, we were done for the day - no campers knocking on the door for firewood or dealing with late night quiet time offenders. 

We were fine with this for June and most of July, but then the hot weather arrived.  Cleaning sites in the sun with 90 degree temps, and being hindered by my AFIB and a bad back eventually became too much.  The volunteer coordinator (Errin - an amazing person) offered us the chance to go back to being the program hosts or "interpretive hosts" for the remainder of our stay.  We gladly accepted, and once again conducted evening programs and held Junior Ranger programs.  Our first love has always been working with children, and we truly enjoyed teaching them the hand movements of "leave no trace" or how to make an "owl bag" or "bat hat".  As the kids worked on the project, we'd talk about the subject, including teaching them the Barred Owl's hoot that sounds like "who cooks for you?".  

Farragut is a great place for kids to camp.  There's a Junior Ranger "station" that's staffed by volunteers with teaching experience, a swimming area and beach with a concession stand, a kid's disk golf course, the "Tree to Tree Adventure", and of course, Silverwood Theme Park down the road.  But most of all, there's marshmallows to roast, trails to hike and ride, and family memories to be made.

Although wildfires raged all over the northwest, we were relatively fire free.  We had a few smoky days from the Canadian fires, and one large fire southeast of us that never got too close thanks to hundreds of firefighters who were housed on Farragut in a "fire camp", a large area of tents, temporary buildings, and vehicles that shuttled men and equipment to the fire.  

We'll miss the the volunteer community here at Farragut. It is one of the largest of any state park with the number fluctuating between 50 and 60.  Most volunteers stay the entire year, and many return each year.  One volunteer has been coming back for over 19 years!  But like most parks, volunteers are getting a bit harder to recruit as many grow older (like us).  If you're interested, there are many different volunteer positions; besides traditional camp hosts and relief hosts, there are

"kiosk hosts" that staff the two entry points, shop (maintenance) hosts, cabin hosts, trail hosts, and interpretive hosts.  Hours vary depending on position, but all are reasonable.  The host RV sites are all superior - paved with full hookups.  The volunteer coordinator is a ranger who works hard to make everyone welcome and happy.  And ah, the potlucks!  With volunteers and staff, four or five banquet tables are filled with everyone's specialty.  If interested, contact ranger Errin Bair (errin.bair@idpr.idaho.gov)

We left Farragut in early October and had an uneventful trip back to the coast, where we once again settled into a lakefront spot at Osprey Point RV Point.  We'll be here until late November when we head south once again for Arizona.

This November will mark our 18th year on the road!  When we started back in 2005 we had no end date in sight, but at the time spending 18+ years would have seemed outrageous.  And yet it doesn't seem to be so many years until we start reliving the memories -memories of places and experiences, but mostly people.  When we started back in 2005 I began writing campground reviews on rvparkreviews.com. (now campgrounds.rvlife.com).  This year I passed the 500 reviews milestone.  This graphic of our reviews is descriptive: 

You'll notice that reviews in the Southeast are visibly absent.  Having lived in that part of the country during our Air Force days we have no desire to again visit that area again.

Every year our medicine cabinet grows more crowded with pills, every morning reveals a new ache, but every morning holds the promise of a new adventure.  In spite of our age, we're not ready to quit the road yet, and we're already looking forward to next summer as we again volunteer for US Fish & Wildlife.  So check back every once in a while and see how year19 is going!

Spring Travels

 Leaving Mohave Valley, we headed for Lake Havasu for some motor home work, then down to Tucson for a stay at Pima County Fairgrounds.  We've stayed here before; it isn't the fanciest RV park in the area, but for our stay it was the most convenient base to visit friends and medical facilities.  We've spent a lot of time in this area over the years, starting in 1971 when Brenda and I bought our first home here while stationed at Davis-Monthan AFB.  Tucson has lost some of the charm over the years as the area exploded in population, but they and the National Park Service have managed to protect a some of the most beautiful places in the area.  Sabino Canyon, the historic downtown area, Xavier Del Bac Mission, and always our favorite, Saguaro National Park.  Unique in location, the park has two sections, one east of town and one west, each within 10 miles of downtown. 

We spent one afternoon on the east, and larger section with 67,000 acres, a visitor center and loop drive.  Along the eight-mile drive are areas to park and read the interpretive panels or take a short hike on trails.  It was a gorgeous day with warm temperatures and sunny skies - a rare exception to the cold temperatures and wind we'd been experiencing.  At each stop along the drive, we were treated to amazing scenery and the myriad shapes of hundreds of Saguaro cactus, including a rare cristate or "crested" one:

Crested Saguaro

Although we enjoy the Tucson area, we were anxious to visit one of our favorite places in the Southwest, the eastern side of the Chiricahua Mountains.  We always stay at Rusty's RV Ranch, a unique park that has 1/4 acre sites and great views of the night sky and mountains.  

The east side and the little town of Portal are well off the interstate and lightly populated.  Our first stop in Portal is the small store and cafe, where my #1 rated green-chili cheeseburger is served.  Around the store and in the nearby canyon the birding is world class, and the area where we saw our first Elegant Trogon, a tropical bird that makes a rare summer appearance in a small section of Southern Arizona and New Mexico.  It has a weird non-bird sounding call that we could hear well before seeing - you can hear it on this site (press the sound link to hear).

Famous among birders, Cave Creek Canyon and the surrounding areas is not only a great area for bird watching, but also a place to enjoy the magnificent scenery.  The road through the canyon winds its way through through the trees with the high colored rock walls of the canyon towering on each side.  Some of our views:  

Canyon Entrance

We enjoy the trails along the canyon; they're mostly level, well marked, and scenic:

We didn't have to go far to see and hear birds - this Eurasian Collared-Dove pair had a nest in the tree next to our RV:

Our visit here always includes a trip up into the mountains to visit the ghost town of Paradise.  Founded in 1901 when a vein of ore was discovered, the town gradually disappeared over the years and currently has a population of around 5 full-time residents.  Two of them are people we try to visit - Winston and Jackie who operate  the George Walker House, a "bed and no breakfast" cabin here, and at their home adjacent to the cabin maintain an area of feeders that attract an amazing variety of birds.  Gracious hosts, they invite visitors to join them on their porch where Jackie will describe the different birds that visit.  We were early this year, but were still treated to the antics of Acorn Woodpeckers and watched Bridled Titmouse and Scott's Orioles.  We truly appreciate their hospitality and hope it continues into our next visit. 

George Walker House

BIrding Area

Driving around Paradise, there are still a few structures and remnants to remind us of the past.  Still in use, the Paradise Cemetery provides a glimpse of life spans of early settlers and their families.

From Rusty's, we headed down I-10 to Las Cruces and a short visit to La Posta de Mesilla restaurant and a short trip to Hatch and Sparky's for my #2 ranked green-chili cheeseburger.  Alas, the line to get into Sparky's was around the block and with temperatures hovering in the low 40s, we decided to pass this time.  Then it was back on the road over Organ Pass, through Alamogordo with a stop at Tularosa and a visit to Inn of the Mountain Gods.  Driving North, we were surprised and happy to see Sierra Blanca covered in snow, a sight we haven't seen for a few years.  

Our next stop was to visit the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, a huge refuge south of the small town of San Antonio.  We had a nice talk with the folks at the visitor center, but the refuge itself was very quiet this time of year; only a hundred or so Snow Geese and a small assortment of birds.  Then it was off to the famed Owl Cafe, which prides itself on it's "World Famous" green-chili cheeseburger:

My #3 Ranked Green-Chili Cheeseburger

We spent a few nights at the Socorro Fairgrounds RV Park, our base for visiting one of the most intriguing sites that we've seen in our travels.  

The Very Large Array (VLA) is located on the Plains of San Agustin far from any populated area and at an altitude of 7000'.  It's difficult to describe the sight of 28 huge radio telescopes that look like huge satellite dishes.  Each one is 82' in diameter, weighs 232 tons, and is mounted on tracks which allow it to be moved into different Y-shaped configurations.  The "Y" when superimposed onto a map of Washington DC actually extends beyond the beltway!  At the maximum alignment, the data from the antennas is combined electronically to give the resolution of an antenna 22 miles across with the sensitivity of a dish 422 feet in diameter.  To give you an idea of the size of a dish, here's Brenda standing next to the spare on display.

What exactly the VLA sees is complicated; for an explanation, read this.  

One of the amazing aspects of the VLA is how they move these huge dishes into different configurations.  To find out how it works, watch this video.

It's impossible to describe the view of these huge disks as they stretch into the distance - you have to see them in person to understand.  It is truly a magical place:

Traveling North from Socorro, we hit I-40 for a stay at the Dancing Eagle Casino RV Park, which gave us a good base to explore the area.  This is a land of native Americans, with numerous tribes mixed in the various pueblos.  Our first visit was to Laguna Pueblo, a historic community dating back to 1400s. 

We were anxious to visit the Mission San Jose de Laguna.  Constructed between 1699 and 1701, the mission is still well maintained and active, with mass said each Sunday.  We were met by a friendly caretaker who gave us a tour and permission to take photos inside the church, a rare opportunity.

The obvious poverty of the surrounding pueblo was disappointing, but the mission, particularly the interior, was beautifully maintained.  

 

An original painting on canvas, restored and hung high on the wall to avoid vandalism:

The ceiling shows how individual pieces of wood were placed to create the colorful pattern:

  Our last stop was a visit to Acoma Pueblo, known as "Sky City" it is regarded as the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States.  High atop a mesa, there is no water or electricity for the less than 50 tribal members who live there year around.  The visitor center was closed this time of year, so we had to be content with looking at it from a distance.  As we've come to expect, the pueblo mission was the most prominent building that we could see.

After a short stay in Gallup, we continued our journey back to the Oregon Coast and Bandon where we're staying for the summer.  If your travels take you to the coast this summer, let us know - we'd love to see you!

Winter in Arizona

 Sometimes the best laid plans go awry - as has happened to us in our quest for a favorable climate for my asthma.  With hope of that a warmer, dry climate would help, we opted to leave the Oregon Coast and spend the winter near Yuma, AZ.  On the way we stopped in Mohave Valley, just north of Needles, CA and after spending a few days, decided that this was a better location than Yuma.  Just 20 miles south of Laughlin and closer to Bullhead City, we found extensive shopping and dining opportunities and of course, a whole lot of casinos!  In fact, the park we're staying is right next to a small but nice casino.  

We're at the appropriately named "Happy Together RV Park", an exceptionally well managed park with huge sites. 

Our site is 100' long and almost as wide, and although there's no grass, there are palm trees here and there.  It's a gated park and the owners provide an abundance of activities and services.  We've met new people, made good friends, and enjoyed ourselves...except that the dry climate is also very windy, contains a lot of dust and pollen. and has havoc with my asthma.  So after six weeks we've decided to move on to Tucson and try it there.  

But our stay in Mohave Valley was not completely without enjoyment.  Each Wednesday the park hosted a pot luck, sometimes catered, which gave us a chance to meet people and make new friends.  After the Oregon Coast, it was nice to visit a variety of restaurants, although we had trouble driving past Culver's without a stop for the "flavor of the day".  

We were only a few miles from the California and Nevada borders which played havoc with time on our watches and phones.  Just a 10 minute drive would take us into the Pacific time zone and we often wished we had a regular old analog watch to tell us what the time really was.  

Mohave Valley, Bullhead City, and Laughlin surprised us.  When we last visited the area ten or so years ago, the area was rundown and depressed.  Today there are new housing areas, upscale shopping, and beautiful city parks.  The casino area of Laughlin is strange; it looks like a mini Las Vegas but even now during the snowbird season when it's at its busiest, the streets are almost empty no matter the time of day

But still the casinos are fairly busy - although almost everyone is grey-haired and most have walked over from the huge RV park (740 spaces) across the street.  We like the fact that there was seldom a wait for any of the restaurants, including some of the most popular like "Bubba Gumps" and "Claim Jumpers".  

Our daughter and husband visited us, and looking for someplace new to them, we took a trip to Oatman.  We'd been before, at least 12 years ago was our first visit, and we were interested in seeing any changes.

Oatman is one of those "historic" western mining towns that has transformed itself into a tourist attraction.  Many of the original buildings remain and have been transformed into souvenir shops and a few restaurants.  But the big attraction is Burros.  No not the kind served at Mexican restaurants, but the four-legged kind. 

Burros and donkeys are the same animal, but they're not mules or jackasses.  Confused?  Burros, donkeys, and jackasses are the same animal (a jackass is always male, which my wife thinks makes perfect sense) but a mule is a cross between a donkey and a horse and is larger.  The burros were prized by gold miners; they could carry twice their own weight, weren't easily startled, and can live in just about any environment.  When the gold ran out, miners simply released them, and as a result there are hundreds roaming the desert southwest.

On our first visit there was no restriction posted on what to feed the burros.  Tourists, including us, arrived with carrots which quickly made you a burro center of attention.  On our second visit a few years later, we were stopped on the road a mile out of town by a burro standing in the middle of the road.  Once we stopped, he came over to the passenger window where Brenda promptly fed him a carrot.  After a few more, he wandered off and let us continue into town, where we were greeted by large signs reading "DO NOT FEED THE BURROS CARROTS!"  In fact, the only food allowed, compressed blocks of hay, had to be purchased from the merchants. Obviously, the mule we ran into could read the signs, and stationed himself outside of town where he could get carrots before tourists entered town.  We asked why no carrots, and were told that they contained too much sugar and the local burros were suffering from diabetes.  

Our visit was on a beautiful weekend day and the town was crowded with tourists
and off-road vehicles.  And burros.  Not as many as we've seen in the past, but small groups of three or four wandering around grudgingly accepting scratches, pets, and an occasional hay cube.  They're surprisingly docile, and refuse to be intimidated by traffic - they move when they feel like it, and then slowly.   

The terrain around Oatman is striking, with rugged mountains surrounding the town.  Throughout the town, historic buildings and signs tell the history of the mining days.

A pleasant surprise to us was the Oatman Hotel Restaurant and Saloon, built in 1902.  It was a busy weekend, and the interior was packed with patrons.  The menu was extensive and reasonable for such a popular tourist stop, and the service was remarkable considering the crowd.  The interior is decorated with dollar bills - on the walls, the ceilings, and every available surface.  Our server wasn't sure how much money was present, but she estimated it was well over a hundred thousand dollars, with some estimates as high as a half million!  

We're back in Tucson now, a town we're very familiar with and where we have friends to visit.  We'll be here for a while so check back and see what we've been doing!